BellaVino

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is considered one of the great wine varieties, bigger, darker and more tannic, even bitter, than most types, but consequently long-lived and prized by collectors. Jealously guarded in its native Italian home and most famous appellation of Piedmont, very few nebbiolo cuttings and clones have been exported to other countries.

The name nebbiolo has two probable origins. Ripe nebbiolo grapes have a very prominent “bloom” that gives them a “foggy” or “frosted” look, so the name could come from from “nebbia”, Italian for “fog”. It is an alternative possibility that the name simply comes from “nobile”, Italian for “noble”. Nebbiolo also goes by the names Spanna, Picutener and Chiavennasca in various Italian districts.

Cultivated since the 14th Century in Valtellina, an east-west valley in the Lombardy region at the foot of the Alps, north of Lake Como, this is the only region where nebbiolo is grown in Italy outside Piedmont. Although there are dozens of nebbiolo clones and nebbiolo is prominent in and famous for producing wines like Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara, the reality is that this variety makes barely 3% of all the wines produced in Piedmont. There are twice as many acres planted with Dolcetto and ten times as many planted with Barbera.

Part of the reason for this, in spite of its reputation, is that nebbiolo is one of the more problematic grapes for both vineyardists and winemakers. It is very sensitive to both soil and geography and can yield wines that vary widely in body, tannin and acidity, as well as aroma and flavor complexity, when grown in only slightly different locales. A very late-season ripener, the vines need the best exposures, especially in cooler climates, in order to reach maturity. It performs much better in calcareous rather than sandy soils. Nebbiolo grape skins are thin, but quite tough and fairly resistant to molds and pests.

Some winemakers feel that nebbiolo is even more difficult to work with than pinot noir. It can be changeable, moody and unpredictable while undergoing typical cellar and aging procedures.

Nonetheless, wherever vintners aspire to producing wine inspired by Barolo, nebbiolo is also grown, including Australia, California, New Zealand, South America and South Africa. Argentina has the largest acreage planted, but no region outside Italy has yet shown much potential for high quality wine production from this grape.

Wines made from nebbiolo are typically dark, tart, tannic and alcoholic. The best smell of cherries, violets and black licorice or truffles and have rich, chewy, deep and long-lasting flavors. Good Nebbiolo can harmonize with the richest, strongest-flavored meats and stews, as well as dry, aged cheeses that may be too strong or distinctive for other wines.

by Jim LaMar